Chef Claudio Covino on the intimate environment of The Franklin
The newly-appointed head chef of The Franklin London tells us of his priceless cooking experience gained in Italy, the importance of quality ingredients, and a new dish for the restaurant that has been described as ‘poetry on a plate’
How did you get into the industry and what would you say was your first serious position as a chef?
I grew up in a family of farmers where we used to cultivate almost everything we needed for our everyday life. I learned to cook what grew from the land from my grandparents and my parents in Italy. That gave me the inspiration to attend the hospitality school where I started to develop my technique in the kitchen.
Then, following one of my professors, I began to work for a catering company and started building up my skills. I moved to Milan to further benefit my career and then an even bigger opportunity came along and I moved to London to eventually take up my first head chef role in 2007.
Besides working alongside Alfredo Russo, what are you most looking forward to in your new position at The Franklin?
I am looking forward to bringing my own culture and tradition to The Franklin Restaurant, and incorporating this into the menus alongside chef Russo. I have worked in London for almost 20 years, so I know the market really well and know the type of food people like to eat, but my heritage means I can also provide an authentic and genuine experience, not just a crowd pleasing one.
In your opinion, what sets The Franklin apart from all the other hotel restaurants in Knightsbridge and the surrounding areas?
I think the intimate environment is definitely what sets The Franklin apart; the restaurant has a really special atmosphere and feels like a true luxury experience, but one that is somewhat hidden from the rest of London. Moreover, we place the guest at the heart of both our service and the preparation of our menus, and we think about them and how to deliver the best we can every step of the way.
How does the hotel’s room service offerings and the on-site restaurant differ?
The room service is a more comfortable menu aimed to be consumed in the quietness of your room. As a result, it has to be a little simpler, providing a different experience which doesn’t need the support of a waiter or a chef.
The on-site restaurant experience is a more immersive one with a dedicated menu aimed to provide a unique dining experience. In this case, not only is there a more complex menu, but the added value of a waiter or myself to talk through the dish and the ingredients create even more of a unique experience.
What would you say has changed the most about the way a kitchen is run since you started your career? And what has changed about cooking in the world of food?
Evolution in cooking is always needed. The art of cooking itself is always moving forward, perhaps following trends, or by setting them. As I said, I grew up with the idea of valuing the products that we had available and I have to say I have never forgotten that lesson. I may have improved my skills throughout the years and from city to city, but I always treasure what my parents and my grandparents taught me about the importance of products and ingredients.
I think this is something that has actually come full circle, too, as now more than ever attention is being placed on the provenance of ingredients as well as the seasonality and sustainability, so it is just as it was before.
Over the years, it’s been great to see more and more female chefs making their way into the sector. There is still a long way to go here, of course, but in the last few years or so I have definitely noticed an increase which is great to see, as there is so much talent to be uncovered.
What advice would you give to smaller hotels with restaurants that are looking to offer a fine-dining experience?
Quality and expertise are always the main goals. Without them, there’s no way to build anything successful.
Can you share with us any future plans that The Franklin is working on?
I’m thrilled to share one of my favourite dishes from the brand new menu of The Franklin
Restaurant that I designed together with chef Alfredo Russo, spaghetti with clams. It is a simple yet rich-tasting dish, which brings together all the fragrances and flavours of my youth as a student at the hospitality school by the sea in the little town of Anzio. It is poetry on a plate and I invite you all to come and taste it at The Franklin.