In conversation with Eco Pizza founder Sami Wasif
Sami Wasif first opened Eco in 1993 and three decades on, the restaurant is as popular as it’s ever been. In this Q&A, he shares with us his story – from first acquiring Pizzeria Franco, which would go on to inspire Franco Manca, to becoming a shareholder of Fulham Shore
Can you tell us about your hospitality experience leading up to starting Eco Pizza in 1993?
My love of food dates back to my childhood in Egypt, where I learned the secrets of dough making from my grandfather, Gerges, who during the Spring Equinox festival would produce and distribute the annual bread ‘starter’ to the villagers. After graduating from university in Cairo, I travelled throughout Italy and became obsessed with authentic pizza.
In 1976, I moved to London and was disappointed by the pizza I found there. Drawing on the knowledge I had gleaned from my family and community, I was determined to bring authentic sourdough to the UK, spending years perfecting my own recipe. At the same time, I worked in many of the city’s restaurants and bars, alone at first and then with my wife, Laura.
How did Pizzeria Franco begin and did it inspire the subsequent opening of Eco?
I purchased Pizzeria Franco – the restaurant that inspired the famous Franco Manca chain – from Franco himself in 1989. Running it with my wife, it was a huge success and had queues regularly snaking around the block. When the opportunity arose to convert, refurbish and rebrand a larger eatery on Clapham High Street – a former branch of Morley’s Fried Chicken – we jumped at the chance. Named after Umberto Eco’s novel-turned-film The Name of The Rose, which was then playing at the Clapham Picturehouse on Venn Street next door, we opened Eco in October 1993. What we had learned at Pizzeria Franco, in terms of menu, customer service and atmosphere were undoubtedly key in making us so popular so quickly.
Why do you think Eco has managed to maintain its popularity for so long?
Over the years, we have expanded our menu and revitalised our interiors, but the love and passion we all have for Eco has remained undiminished throughout the last three decades. Crucially, we have stayed true to our neighbourhood feel – and we’ve never been afraid of hard work!
How did you come to know Wagamama founder Alan Yau?
I first got to know Alan as a customer. He had heard good things about Eco and came to try it for himself. He then became something of a regular and our friendship grew from there.
What made you decide to become a major shareholder of Yau’s Michelin-starred restaurants, as well as The Fulham Shore Plc until 2015?
In 2000, Alan bought Hakkasan and asked if I would like to become a shareholder. I had some money saved, and given the success that Alan had enjoyed with Wagamama, it was an easy decision to make.
I continued to be the second largest shareholder in Fulham Shore – which bought Franco Manca and The Real Greek in March 2015 – until April last year when the Fulham Shore itself was sold to Japanese company Toridoll for £93m. By this stage, there were 70 Franco Mancas across the UK and 27 Real Greeks. This was the end of an era for me – only 15 years earlier I had brought the first two Franca Manco restaurants to the table, in Brixton and Chiswick.
What are your day-to-day responsibilities within your business?
Aside from Eco, I also own The Pepper Tree, a Thai restaurant close to Clapham Common which I founded in 1994, and the Camden Bakery, which I took over in 2013 but which was established as The Little Baker in 1972. I also have an extensive residential and commercial property portfolio.
That said, Eco remains my first love and I am in the restaurant every day, checking on the staff, making sure the sourdough is just right and greeting our guests. My daughter, Charmaine, with whom I run the business, reckons that I am psychic as I am able to predict exactly what is going to happen at Eco on any given day!
Are there any new things coming up for your restaurants that you would like to share?
I am currently collaborating with acclaimed Egyptian street food brand Zooba, which has seven branches in Cairo and one in New York City. Charmaine and I are also working on a book about bread and are looking to expand this into a series of books, podcasts and videos about Egyptian food as a whole.